Shepherd's huts near Bala

The churning waters of the Tryweryn river northwest of Bala on the way to Llyn Celyn are famed for their whitewater rafting: the National Whitewater Centre is here. Tyn Cornel Camping, close to the centre and right on the river, is an excellent spot to base yourself for rafting, kayaking and wild swimming on the river: it offers traditional camping and glamping in lotus belle tents, pods and a geodome.

South of Bala and just outside Snowdonia National Park boundary, the Dyfnant Forest area, with Lake Vyrnwy to its north, is still right in the middle of some stunning wild countryside, alternating between big spreads of conifer and steep, stark hills. Hiking is top-drawer, with the Glyndŵr's Way long-distance path bisecting Dyfnant Forest. It happens to have a remarkably high concentration of campsites, too, both traditional tent camping and glamping in pre-pitched safari tents.

In Snowdonia’s extreme, emerald-hued south, the switch from jagged, dramatic mountainside down into lower, greener Mid Wales hills is astonishingly beautiful—and amenity-rich village Dinas Mawddwy looks out on the scene. Hiking and biking are excellent, particularly from the vertiginous back road to Dinas Mawddwy from Llanuwchllyn near Llyn Tegid. A good campsite hereabouts is Celyn Brithion, between Dinas Mawddwy and Mallwyd.