South Ronaldsay’s main town is a picturesque harbour village and the point of entrance for those travelling to Orkney by the Pentland Ferries. Tucked snugly into the north of the island, “The Hope” provides a perfect stop-off before exploring the rest of the island. Stroll the short high street, pop into one of a few pubs and cafes, then head out refreshed and ready to brave the Orkney elements.
Drive straight south through 16 kilometres of farmland and you’ll meet the end of the road where South Ronaldsay drops off into the Pentland Firth. From Burwick, walk the coast to Barth Head, with views out toward the abandoned island of Swona, and, on a clear day, the mountains of mainland Scotland to the south. Nearby at Isbister lies the Tomb of the Eagles, a Neolithic chambered cairn ready to explore for those willing to wiggle through the tight entrance tunnel.
The half-moon beach at Sands o’Wright is a hidden gem in Orkney. On those rare windless and warm summer days it’s one of the places to lay out a picnic and wade into cold, calm waters. Just to the west lies Hoxa Head, an impressive promontory forming a pin-ball arm of sorts at the bottom of Scapa Flow. Walk to the headland from the beach or drive to the small car park and step out to explore the World War II batteries perched on the cliff edge.
Upon arrival in Orkney, one thing is clear: these weather-battered islands are nearly treeless. The purpose-built Olav’s wood is an oasis in a landscape dominated by bare land and blue sea. Just down the road at Windwick Bay, a beach hidden by craggy cliffs is a scenic spot from which to view sea stacks and forms part of the South Ronaldsay coastal walk. In between the woods and the beach sits the Cairns, an ongoing archeological dig working to uncover an Iron Age and Norse settlement.