Surely, few areas sum up the appeal of France better than the charming Périgord. The River Dordogne carves this fabled region in two, its banks lined with picturesque villages, high bridges and dozens of illustrious castles – the scene of centuries of combat and conquests. Today the clanking of sword and armour has given way to that of tent poles and fold-up chairs, in what is one of France's most popular camping destinations.
Chief amongst the region's most popular sites, La Grand Veyière is arguably the Dordogne’s best family-friendly campsite, a secluded, bucolic bolthole that makes for an ideal tranquil retreat. Overseen lovingly by the warm and hospitable Griet and Philippe, La Grand Veyière’s 11 acres cater to campers of all persuasions, with space for tents, caravans and even a scattering of mobile homes and glamping abodes.
Quiet and intimate on the one hand, the site can also be a hive of activity, with an array of games, creative workshops and even the odd spot of live music in the evenings. Kids will certainly not be bored. The lagoon-shaped swimming pool is the focal point of all manner of shenanigans, and an all-round air of bonhomie prevails; you'll likely leave with more than a few extra contacts in your address book.
Beyond the campsite grounds, this château-studded land can be visited all year round, but in truth the summer months are something special. Take a stroll in the countryside and marvel at the countless species of wild flowers. The diverse landscape is truly a camper’s dream, with shaded streams that are perfect for canoeing, five-star mountain-biking trails, prehistoric caves ripe for discovery, not to mention rock climbing and horseriding. With this sort of heart-stirring countryside, and delectable regional food, it’s very easy to see why the region is a particular favourite of re-locating Brits. So why not join them? Even if it is only for a day or two.
Sarlat is a charming labyrinth of passageways, sandstone buildings, and secluded squares. Showcasing some of Europe’s best-preserved medieval architecture, unsurprisingly Sarlat has become a tourist trap, so you may find it hard to enjoy the town’s beauty amongst the sharp elbows of sightseers during the busy summer months. Whichever alley you decide to amble down, sooner or later you'll reach the cathedral. Originally built in the 1100s, the abbey was redeveloped in the early 1500s and refurbished again in the 1700s, so it's a real mix of architectural styles. The western side and the belfry are the oldest parts of the building. Another delightful day-trip is to the sweet village of Monpazier; a proud member of the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The most beautiful villages of France.) Steeped in history, Monpazier was founded in 1284 by King Edward I of England, but it was only during the reign of King Charles V of France (1366-1380) that the Monpazier became French. Don’t leave without checking out the Place des Cornière; a square surrounded by homes whose ground floor form the arches of an arcade. Also, the thirteenth century St Dominique’s Church (built on a little island separated from the market square) is well worth a look.
There’s a small shop onsite offering fresh bread every morning. The bar also offers take-away snacks. Head to the Restaurant de l’Abbaye in Cadouin (0033 553 634 093) for an experience in pure French gastronomy. This gourmet eatery (with cosy terrace) offers fresh food that is always beautifully presented. Follow the river east to Beynac (40 mins) for the romantic restaurant La Petite Tournelle (0033 553 299 518). Once you’ve navigated the higgledy-piggledy street, try the grilled duck and sumptuous chocolate cake. Dishes start from €16. For some fresh local produce, head to Sarlat for its twice-weekly market. Since this is the Dordogne (aka "land of the duck"), you can be sure to find plenty of pâté and foie gras at the many market butchers. Other local specialties include goose, cheese (of course!), cherries, walnuts, and truffles.