If ever there was a campsite run by campers for campers, it’s Woodfire Camping in West Sussex. Opened in 2018, this spot in the heart of the South Downs is the brainchild of hosts Stella and Griff. Drawing on a lifetime’s worth of camping experience around the UK and the wider world, this couple know what ingredients go in to making a truly cracking campsite. As Stella explains, “we've both camped all our lives, in orange canvas tents in the 70s and 80's; in a cosy two-man round Europe when we were younger and then every summer in a family tent since we've had children. Hopefully our experience will show in the way we've planned our campsite”.
Woodfire Camping is a throwback to camping from the good old days. This refreshingly understated spot is all about traditional tent camping with nature providing the entertainment—there’s not a hard-standing, electric hook-up, clubhouse or satellite TV in sight. And, as the name suggests, campfires are positively encouraged!
The spacious buttercup-dotted meadow hosts just 30 tents, with a crowd-pleasing pitch-where-you-like policy meaning guests a free to find a spot that suits on the grass. For those lazy bones who can’t be doing with the pegs and poles themselves, a handful of pre-erected tents are available to rent, including some cool retro models equipped with comfy vintage furnishings.
Despite its off-grid nature, the site doesn’t lack for the bare necessities. A pair of showers dispense instant hot water—although in keeping with the site’s green credentials, these are only available at peak hours in the morning and evening to help conserve water—and loos are of the compost variety. Power-wise nothing is wired in, either, though the camp kitchen supplies enough juice to charge your phone. The lack of synthetic light at this designated Dark Sky Reserve ensures some of the best stargazing in the south-east.
There’s even a few luxury touches on offer like a resident masseuse offering half-hour pampering sessions. And, influenced by their stays at Italian agriturismos, Stella and Griff also offer a range of home-cooked breakfasts and dinners—from huevos rancheros to delicious stews with gremolata and flatbreads—all cooked over the campfire.
It’s often said that a campsite is only as good as its setting and Woodfire ticks more than a few boxes in the location stakes. The campsite is located on Westerlands, a 1,000 acre stud farm regarded as one of England’s most scenic – it’s forest-fringed fields filled with horses, Dexter cattle and Suffolk sheep. The site neighbours the Goodwood Estate while there’s an abundance of chocolate-box market towns nearby like Arundel, Bosham, Petersfield and Petworth, and Bosham. Best of all, there’s peerless access to the South Downs Way—literally take the track out the gate and follow your nose.
The South Downs National Park is eminently explorable from the campsite. England’s newest national park is filled with miles of dog-friendly rights-of-way to walk, including the Kingly Vale Trail. Or you could take it on two-wheels by cycling the South Downs Way. The Goodwood Estate is just under half an hour away. Home to the famous racecourse, Goodwood Festival of Speed and the Goodwood Revival, it’s a mecca for petrolheads and fans of the gee-gees alike. The estate grounds also hosts the Cass Sculpture Foundation (01243 538449) which features over 50 extraordinary works of art amongst stunning gardens and bluebell-strewn woodland. There are several stately properties to explore including Petworth House (01798 343929), Uppark House and Garden (01730 825415) – both National Trust-run – and the gorgeous West Dean Gardens (01243 818210) and Parham House and Gardens (01903 742021). Chichester Harbour AONB is a little over 30 mins away, so too are the beautiful beaches of Climping, Bracklesham Bay and West Wittering. The Weald & Downland Living Museum (01243 811348) at Singleton also offers a fascinating glimpse into the region's heritage.
The onsite Camp Kitchen does delicious breakfasts and evening meals most days and every weekend, usually cooked over a woodfire or charcoal, either on the grill or in the pot. Breakfast is bacon & egg sarnies done perfectly like the good old days, tomato-ey garlicky bread (pan con tomate) using local Nutbourne tomatoes; wood-smoked granola and yoghurt, good coffee, tea and toast/jam/marmite. Dinner might be grilled meat or fish and salads or stews with gremolata and flatbreads (kids prices are also available). You'll get an email a week or so before your stay with all the ordering details. Pub-wise, there's plenty of traditional Sussex watering holes to seek out after a day's walking on the Downs. Pubs like The Three Moles (01798 861303), a short drive away, or The Cricketers (01798 342473) in Duncton, near Petworth. The latter, 16th century coaching inn, ticks all the boxes with a large Inglenook fireplace, beautiful beer gardens, a range of real ales and hearty pub fayre on offer. The White Horse Graffham (01798 867331) is one of the more upmarket gastropub options serving a refined menu of English classics. Another worthy dining option is The Unicorn Inn (01730 813486) at Heyshott, boasting locally sourced dishes and stunning views from its beer garden. There's a well-stocked village shop in Graffham too for any essentials you may need.
