If arriving to mainland Orkney by ferry across the Pentland Firth, your port of call will be the fishing village of Stromness. Nestled onto the southwestern corner of the island, the stone village spreads up a hillside, hemmed in by lush farmland and the Hoy Sound. Travel the narrow flagstone-paved high street, detouring up meandering closes and ducking into independent shops and cafes. At Ness Point campsite, if the views of Hoy and Scapa Flow don’t take your breath away, the wind surely will. Wander the coastal path toward Warebeth Beach or cut up the hillside to Brinkie’s Brae for a classic Orkney panorama.
The rugged coast from Stromness north to Birsay is a favourite for geology, wildlife, and history lovers alike. Adventurous Hipcampers can walk a section of the wild coastal path (bog-proof hiking boots suggested), but be sure to drop a car as public transport is limited. Road trip via the red sandstone cliffs of Yesnaby, the Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae, and The Kitchener Memorial before parking across from the Brough of Birsay. At low-tide, cross the land bridge on foot to the small island where Norse and Pictish ruins lay exposed to the elements and, in spring and summer, Puffin colonies nest on the cliffs.
At the heart of Kirkwall stands the imposing St Magnus Cathedral, named for the martyred Earl of Orkney. From here, the archipelago’s largest town unfurls in tightly-knit streets and closes. Walk north toward the harbour past a hub of cafes, hotel restaurants, and shops packed with renowned Orkney-made wares. South of town, the two northernmost whisky distilleries in Scotland, Scapa and Highland Park, offer daily tours and tastings in season.
Beyond Kirkwall, the eastern half of the Orkney mainland returns to sea, sky and rolling green farmland. At the southeastern tip, a walk at Rose Ness offers views to South Ronaldsay you’ll have all to yourself. Between the twin peninsulas of Tankerness and Deerness are the sand dunes at Dingieshowe beach, a picturesque spot that marked a popular meeting point for Vikings scattered across the nearby shores.