At the far western edge of the Gower Peninsula, Rhossili Bay, a spectacular four-mile sweep of sand, spreads wide and flat northwards from Rhossili town to the tiny offshore islet of Burry Holmes. From the elevated vantage point at Worms Head in Rhossili, it seems to stretch forever; a colossal swathe of surf-kissed beach. Access is from Rhossili itself or at the other end of the beach near the town of Llangennith, where a narrow country road arrives at the beach car park and the unassuming surfers’ encampment of Hillend.
Occupying some prime beachside real estate behind the grassy dunes, Hillend campsite has had something of a makeover in recent years. After suffering a reputation for lager louts, all-night parties and boisterous teenage gangs from Swansea, the owners decided to go for a fresh start. They designated two of the four fields as ‘family only’, began turning away groups of dodgylooking youths and built a ‘posh’ family café and one of the finest amenities blocks on any Welsh campsite.
The result is a site that offers a more amenable, grown-up experience, while successfully retaining its relaxed, surf-cool heritage. As an indication of the change of clientele, the staff have reported that when litter-picking in the sand dunes, they now find empty bottles of champagne and vintage wine rather than flagons of cheap cider.
It’s a big site, with 275 pitches on 14 acres of level meadowland, but the new shower block can easily cope with the numbers and there’s more than enough room for everyone to share the large beach during the day.
Beginners and intermediate surfers will find the conditions at Rhossili Bay perfect, with a combination of the full Atlantic swell and a gently sloping beach producing long waves that can be ridden (with a bit of practice) for more than 100 metres. The Welsh Surfing Federation (01792 386426; www. wsfsurfschool.co.uk) runs two-hour surfing lessons from £25.
The appeal of this location is more than just the beach, the surf and the Gower landscape; it’s much more than the sum of its constituent parts. There’s an inexplicable pull about this particular part of the peninsula that has a deep and lasting effect on visitors. Maybe it’s the wild and remote atmosphere, enhanced by the crashing Atlantic waves. Maybe as the wind stirs up the long-grassed dunes it releases a certain mystical energy. Or maybe it’s the fact that the chavs and troublemakers have been banished. Whatever the reason, why not start with just a weekend camping at Hillend and see how you go?
