Dramatic limestone gorges steal most of the tourist glory along the Ardèche River. The famous Pont d’Arc – a rock arch spanning some 60 metres over the river – is splashed across the visitor’s pamphlets and kayaking day-trippers pour down the river each the summer. Head upriver, however, into the quieter beginnings of the waterway and the scene is altogether different. Rocks and sandbars break up the space, making it unnavigable for canoes, and numerous waterfalls spill their way down the valley to form natural pools that are perfect for swimming. It is here, around five kilometres from the river’s source in the Massif Central, that Camping Les Rives de L'Ardèche is found.
Set along a gently curving riverbank, with its own little beach and paddling spot, Les Rives de L'Ardèche accommodates around 60 camping pitches along with a small clutch of static mobile homes. Three different tiers each provide a perfectly flat space for tents, while mature trees cast ample dappled shade (welcome during the midday heat of summer). While the best pitches are undoubtedly those right beside the river, being near the reception block has its rewards; there’s free Wi-Fi, an ice-pack freezer, a small shop and tourist information – plus you don’t have to walk far to collect your freshly baked croissants in the morning.
Beyond the on-site entertainment – pétanque, ping-pong, a playground and hours spent pool-hopping in the river – there’s plenty to do nearby. Walk into the local village of Mayres for a bite to eat or hike further into the hills behind the campsite. The surrounding area is all part of the Parc Naturel Régional des Monts d'Ardèche, an area particularly famed for its limestone caves and waterfalls. For the very best of the lot, though, leave the limestone behind and drive the 40 minutes north to Cascade du Ray Pic, where the River Bourges splashes its way over two ginormous waterfalls that have formed on a dark volcanic rock that was once the longest lava flow in all of France.