While it’s true that Treheli is just another holiday destination in the great scheme of things, this is more of a place to say ‘goodbye cruel world’ and offer yourself into a better one. But don’t expect this better world to come fully equipped with all the latest mod cons, because it doesn’t.
In fact, in an ablutionary sense, facilities here belong to another, lesser, world. But the whole point about Treheli is the great location; perched delicately on a level ledge of ground elevated several hundred metres above the sea, with a spectacular view out over the beach of Porth Neigwl (or Hell’s Mouth, in English). This beach is best known for its truly delinquent surfing conditions, but generally speaking, the site is sheltered from the 'southwesterlies' that pile the waves up so high in the bay below. The four-mile-long stretch of sand and its deeply soothing turquoise water must surely count as one of the most impressive beaches in Britain and it’s usually just as impressively empty.
This small, quiet site overlooks the whole length of the beach and every pitch boasts the same wonderful view. The quiet, peaceful atmosphere on this site reflects perfectly the tranquillity of the environs and the lack of urgency that surrounds life in the western extremities of the Llŷn Peninsula. It’s a short stroll down to the deserted sands from the site - though a little more huff and puff may be required on the return leg.
Three southerly miles along the coast path, the feet fall upon the scenic joys of Porth Ysgo and further along, the small seaside village of Aberdaron is waiting to be discovered. In the other direction from Treheli, after the beach, a further four miles of strolling brings the resort of Abersoch into view. This is where the 30-somethings from the Cheshire stockbroker belt take their leisure and where the raft of decent restaurants reflect this.
It seems a shame to ever get back in a car again after a few days of unwinding the motoring tensions at Treheli, but the roads on the western side of the Llyn are very quiet and all lead to places that deserve to be anything but peaceful. The western fringe of the peninsula hides a succession of beautiful little coves that rarely get busy, even in the mayhem of mid-summer. Porth Oer is the most popular and easiest to get at, while Porth Iago and Traeth Penllech are achingly good looking.
There are days out a-plenty to be had from Treheli if the urge takes you, including the ancient charms of Caernarfon and Criccieth, where there is also a castle and perhaps the best ice-cream shop in the world. But wherever you wander on the lovely Llyn there will be nowhere lovelier than the view from your own tent, and no better life than that of a beach bum with a Treheli address.