There's more than one story behind this magical, pop-up, off-grid riverside campsite in Snowdonia — and the space and seclusion to unravel its mysteries and revel in the surroundings. Looking for a different way of life, long-time documentary-maker Max has set up two 'almost wild' camping pitches on his 31-acre smallholding in the glorious valley of Cwm Pennant, beloved of walkers and mountain-bikers. Here, in your own slice of riverside heaven, in the shelter of ancient, moss-covered walls, you get a place to engage in your own back-to-nature adventure — and, who knows, create a different kind of holiday story.
The set-up for each pitch is simple — a spacious bell tent on-site, grass space for another tent or two if you like, a hammock and a fire pit, and a Robinson Crusoe-style cookhouse that's far better equipped than you might at first expect. There's no glam in this camping — unless you count the tea-light chandelier in the largest bell tent — but it's cosy, rustic, and entirely in keeping with the surroundings. You share a couple of nearby compost loos, and an electric shower up by the farmhouse, which is suitable given that the total capacity on the smallholding is just ten campers. Water comes from the crystal-clear river, which you're asked to treat with respect — which means you can swim in it (it's refreshing or, as some might say, freezing cold), but only without wearing sunscreen.
And what else will you do in this quiet, calm, remote corner of Snowdonia? River-scrambling, sheltered woodland picnics, or a clamber up the hill for a sunset sundowner, just for starters. There are pigs and chickens to meet, while Max has plans to create veg gardens and wildflower meadows and run artisan craft workshops in the future. In good weather, and with the right gear, you can hike straight into the mountains from the site, or at least walk as far as the head of the valley — considered one of the most beautiful in Wales — for stunning views of Ynys Môn (Anglesea) and Yr Wyddfa (Mount Snowdon). Further afield and action-adventure Snowdonia is close to hand, from zip wires and bike trails to wild swims and mountain ascents.
But probably, for much of the time, you'll do as Max intended, which is to soak up the gentle vibes from the babbling river and shady woodland and enjoy the solitude. This peaceful, unspoiled retreat brought him here from London in the first place and charmed him into staying, and there's no guarantee it won't work the same magic on you.